The HRP split off from the GR10 for a mile or two, weaving along the side of Choldokogagna with soaring views back to the Atlantic coast, before rejoining on the other side of the peak. Those miles passed very quickly and as the first big climb began she stopped for a water break and gave me some stickers as we said our farewells. Her name is Susan Goodyear, she’s a writer and has a podcast called The War On Cars (!!!!) The first hiker I encountered happened to be from Brooklyn and we struck up a really great conversation about visiting European family (mine French, hers Spanish) and politics and mostly about environmental activism. The trail led out of town rather abruptly and began to climb, following the GR10. I couldn’t get a picture for my terminus start photo while in the water as a solo hiker, so this is the best I could do:Īfter emerging from the water and doing a brief pat down dry I hefted on my pack and walked barefoot for a quarter mile while my feet dried and the sand fell off (no worse way to start a hike than with wet feet and sandy socks!) When I got to the beach on the Atlantic side of Hendaye I threw down my pack, stripped to just my shorts, remembered to empty my pockets, and went for the obligatory starting swim. I had four bonus miles to trek to get to the official starting point, an enjoyable start mostly walking the beach boardwalk after cruising through Irun city center and crossing the French border Bridge. The day started when I got booted out of the donativo Pilgrim’s Albergue I stayed at in Irun right at their closing time of 8am (had to get as much of that complementary wifi and coffee as possible, like a thruhiker does).
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